Walking
around Richard Moriarty’s Back Bay property,
it’s easy to forget you’re in Newport
Beach. The three-and-a-half
acres of land perched between a golf course and an equestrian path sit directly
above the mud flats and salt marshes of the bay amid multi-million dollar
properties. And yet, it has the relaxed,
almost rural feel of a gentleman farmer’s estate, where ponds are stocked with
koi and bass swim languidly. The
lushness of the property is evidence of the owner’s botanical prowess-a block
away he grows rare orchids and tropical plants at his nursery, while here
species of palms flourish everywhere. Amid
the greenery sits a chicken coop where exotic varieties of birds cluck and peck
and lay rainbow-colored eggs. The rural
reverie is disturbed by a plane taking off from John Wayne airport, a reminder
that his property is just a few blocks from civilization, even though it feels
a world away.
It’s
here that Moriarty has embarked on a seemingly quixotic quest to produce high
quality wine in Orange
County. “At first people think I’m crazy,” Moriarty
says. “you can’t grow grapes in Newport,’ they say. The truth is, you can’t stop ‘em from
growing.” The proof is on the vine. Plants that had just budded in late April
(when the above photograph was taken) had grown 2-3 feet by mid-May, with
clusters of tiny fruit already appearing.
Moriarty
has 700 vines planted on one acre, divided between cabernet sauvignon, merlot,
cabernet franc, petit verdot, and malbec, the five classic Bordeaux varietals. Southern California’s
climate is called Mediterranean for a reason;
Moriarty says his vineyard has the same elements of soil and climate, the same
warm days and cool nights that produce the great wines of Bordeaux, Napa, and other storied wine-making regions
throughout the world.
Originally
Moriarty had planned to just grow the grapes and sell them to wine producers
elsewhere. Even though it’s zoned
residential, neighbors objected to the idea of trucks pulling onto the property
to take the grapes to wineries, another reminder he is indeed in Newport Beach. Undeterred, Moriarty decided if he couldn’t
take his grapes to the winery, he’d bring the winery to his grapes and
established the Newport Beach Vineyards and Winery.
Though
some may think Moriarty’s endeavor odd, he has clear historical precedent in
his agricultural quest, precedent both familial and geographic. Orange
County was a vast
vineyard long before orange trees grew.
In 1887, German immigrants bought 1,165 acres near the Santa Ana River
in present-day Anaheim
and established the Los Angeles Vineyard Society. Within 10 years the communal colony had 47
wineries-though soon disease wiped out the crops, which were replaced with
citrus trees.
Around
the turn of the 20th century Moriarty’s great grandfather Charles
John Segerstrom saw that the fertile land around Greenville, near Santa Ana, was perfect for farming. He leased and bought land, and then more,
until by the 1950s the Segerstrom family had 2,000 acres, and went on to
develop South Coast Plaza
and the cultural and commercial centers around it. As an heir to that legacy Moriarty’s green
thumb comes with the genes.
His
first foray into winemaking was in high school when he took some pomegranate
juice, put it
in
a jar, added a few drops of wine and it fermented. “It wasn’t very good,” he
says. “But it did the trick.”
After
college he made leather goods in Europe,
pretending to be Italian as he sold them to tourists in Rome.
Later, he opened his own leather shop in Costa Mesa, but found
that plants and terrariums sold better.
He developed the business into Instant Jungle,
a landscaping company he later sold. In
the 1980s he gained a reputation for throwing outrageous bashes
that Moriarty says “got me banned from every hotel ballroom in Orange County-and the Spruce Goose in Long Beach.”
A
1974 Porsche Carerra Targa and Lamborghini Countach-licence plates LTSPRTE
(“Let’s party”) and
FAAST-are
reminders of their owner’s former hot lifestyle. Today the cars cool off in a
large room at
the
winery kept at 60-degrees for wine storage, while Moriarty usually tools around
town in a
camouflage-painted
Isuza Trooper.
Though
has mellowed, his passion for wine still burns. “I love plants, and I love
wine,” he says. “It’s fun.
It’s
hard work too, but it’s more interesting than growing lima beans.”