Newport's
Veteran Party Guy Now Its Novice Winery Owner
Business:
Richard Moriarty--'80s reveler and
Segerstrom heir--sees profit potential.
By WILLIAM LOBDELL, TIMES STAFF WRITER
August 26, 2001
Richard Moriarty may be best known as the
savvy promoter of notorious 1980s parties, such as his "Pimps, Hookers,
Drug Dealers and Lawyers Ball." The bacchanalian affairs drew as many as
3,000 people, many of them barely clothed.
"I've been banned from every hotel
ballroom in Orange County--plus the Spruce Goose," said Moriarty.
"People still come up to me and say either, 'I got married,' or, 'I got
divorced because of your parties.' "
At 53, the mellowing playboy --a member of
the Segerstrom clan who turned their lima bean fields into South Coast
Plaza--is using his entrepreneurial skills and family agricultural knowledge to
develop a different legacy: Newport Beach's first and only vineyard and winery,
called: Newport Beach Vineyard and Winery. "I don't recall another
vineyard in the town--unless the Indians were growing them. I don't think they
were," said Bill Grundy, president of the Newport Beach Historical
Society. "It sounds like a fun thing for Newport."
At least one wine expert said Moriarty
picked the right spot to put down roots, calling his 3.5 acres overlooking
Upper Newport Bay one of "the best places in the world to grow
grapes."
Last Thursday, Moriarty harvested more
than a ton of Bordeaux-style grapes from his one-acre vineyard in Newport
Beach. The grapes will yield about 850 bottles of wine, which he hopes to sell
in two years. Moriarty's first vintage last year produced a bottle of Back Bay
Cuvee that recently won a silver medal in the Orange County Fair Wine
competition. The remainder of the first harvest--30 gallons of wine--continues
to age in a single barrel.
"It definitely shows promise,"
said Blair Wallace, publisher of the Underground Wine Journal, a Costa
Mesa-based national magazine for winemakers and connoisseurs. "The
location is really intriguing, since it has similarities to Bordeaux," a
coastal region in southern France.
Coastal vineyards were once commonplace in
Southern California's early 20th century landscape, long before any grapes were
harvested in Napa, Sonoma or Temecula. In fact, Orange County became famous for
its citrus only after disease--then known as Anaheim disease, now renamed
Pierce's disease--wiped out 40,000 acres of vineyards in the central county.
But rising land prices, more than disease,
ultimately destroyed the local wine industry. A few boutique vineyards in the
Los Angeles area have taken root over the past two decades. They are operations
started by wealthy men whose passion for quality wines outweighed bottom-line
concerns.
Tom V. Jones, former chairman of Northrop
Corp., owns Moraga Vineyards, planted on eight acres in Bel Air. His
wines--which sell for $125 a bottle--have become a favorite of critics in the
past decade. George Rosenthal, who makes his money in Los Angeles real estate,
started Malibu Hills Vineyard in the late 1980s. It now produces 5,000 cases of
wine annually from 24 acres of vineyards in pricey Newton Canyon. And
Moriarty's small vineyard is planted on a multimillion-dollar bay view land.
"It's ideal grape-growing land,"
said Moriarty, "It's just expensive."
The fledgling vintner says his patch of
land has unique terroir, a French term that encompasses all the environmental
elements--soil, climate, water, sunlight, and topography--that go into growing
grapes.
Moriarty grows five classic Bordeaux
varietals--cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and
malbec--which he blends.
By the time Moriarty sells his first
bottle of wine, he figures he'll have put nearly $500,000 into the vineyard and
winery. His goal is to produce small
quantities of quality wine, starting at least at $50 a bottle.
"We should make money," said
Moriarty, a tall, muscular man with calloused hands who looks more like a
cowhand than heir to a Segerstrom family fortune. "That's the idea
anyway."
Moriarty got the idea for a Newport Beach
winery while heli-skiing in Italy and seeing vineyards next to villas. A wine
connoisseur who went to college in France, he also knew of the Malibu vineyards
and figured his Newport property could produce a similar crop.
He hired a $200-an-hour consultant, but
soon found he could learn more by attending wine auctions and dinners, and
picking the brains of winemakers. He also visited wineries in California and
Europe.
"It's not competitive in any
way," said Tricia Levine of Moraga Vineyards. "Everybody has different
methods of working that they share. There's tremendous camaraderie."
For Moriarty, growing the vines was the
easy part. A landscape contractor, he also grows finicky orchids for sale.
"Grapes are pretty much a
no-brainer," Moriarty said with his usual bluntness. "They grow like
weeds."
In two growing seasons, Moriarty hasn't
had any problem with disease or pests that have plagued the Temecula vineyards
of Riverside County. He attributes his good luck to cool, coastal weather and
the 165 species of insect-eating birds in the 740 acres of the neighboring
Upper Back Bay, a state ecological reserve.
The glassy-winged sharpshooter, an insect
that is a grape's biggest enemy, carries bacteria that causes Pierce's disease,
which has caused $40 million in losses in Temecula in recent years.
The novice winemaker did encounter one
setback. After planting his first vines, he decided to check on them that
night. He found 20 rabbits nibbling his crop.
"It was like they were lined up at a
buffet," he said. He set up barriers until the vines grew beyond
rabbit-nibbling height.
Because of the complex permitting
process--he needed approvals from city, state and federal authorities--Moriarty
was not allowed to ship his grapes to a winemaker. Instead, he had to learn to
make his own wine.
By reading books and visiting wineries, he
pieced together a makeshift, one-man operation in a garage to take the grapes
from the vine to the bottle. Moriarty even hijacked the motor from his wood
chipper to power his de-stemming machine.
His plans include a tasting room in nearby
Santa Ana Heights, and a wine cave next to the vineyard to store the French oak
barrels containing his wine. The cave also will include a small dining room
above the storage area, where Moriarty plans to throw small dinner parties.
Right now, the novice vintner is busy in
his garage fermenting the grape crush in a large bin--and wondering exactly how
much Fermaid--a product that gives the yeast a boost--he should stir into the
mix.
"Man," he said, looking at the
batch, "I hope I didn't put in too much."